- Antique Jewellery, Auctions, Bonhams, Cartier, Designers, Edits, Events, London, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels
GEMOLOGUE JEWELLERY CURATION BONHAMS AUCTION HOUSE: KNIGHTSBRIDGE JEWELS AUCTION 13 October 2021
Such a thrill to be asked again by Bonhams Auction House to curate some remarkable jewellery pieces from their upcoming Knightsbridge Jewels sale on October 13 (11:00 BST). So many iconic and timeless jewels to choose from at incredible prices, you won’t want to miss it.
Choose from a gorgeous array of signed pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany, Piaget, Graff and Bulgari, to mention just a few. I’ve also picked out some vintage gold statement chains, as well as timeless charms, gemstones and magical rings. And if you’re an art buff, you’re gonna love my favourite Salvador Dali finds.
I can’t wait to show you my curation of favourite jewels and give you a taste of what to expect and how to style these fantastic gems. But first, here are a few tips on bidding:
HOW TO BID ON YOUR FAVOURITE KNIGHTSBRIDGE JEWELS
- Bid online by registering in advance at Bonhams.com
- Include a copy of your documents, as well as proof of address.
- Look through my jewellery curation and make a note of your favourite lot numbers.
- Early viewing starts on October 10th 11:00 – 15:00 and October 11th and 12th 10:00 – 16:00 at Bonhams Knightsbridge
- Experience the thrill of the auction, as bids are placed and other buyers bid against you.
LOT 301: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: ‘ALHAMBRA’ TIGER’S EYE AND CARNELIAN NECKLACE
Inspired by the four-leaf clover as a symbol of good luck, this particular Alhambra necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels was designed in 2006. Surrounded by a skilfully beaded silhouette in gold and drawing from a colourful palette of natural gemstones, this statement necklace brings tiger’s eye and carnelian together in a rich and luxurious dance.
Instantly recognisable and extremely versatile, add this necklace to your jewellery box for everyday wear from day to night. Looks splendid with the red dress I’m wearing right now and adds a modern touch to my look.
ESTIMATE: £3,000 – 5,000
LOT 129: CARTIER DIAMOND ‘CONSTELLATION’ TRINITY RING, 1999
Like so many of Cartier’s creations, the Trinity ring was made famous by many celebrities, including actors, writers and style icons. Featured in the Saatchi Gallery portrait exhibition, Studio 7 by Cartier this summer in London, the Cartier Trinity ring certainly stole the show.
Created in 1924, the Trinity ring is typically worn on the pinky finger as a symbol of style. It is often found in tricolour gold, representing fidelity, friendship and love. It’s also the perfect fidget-ring as the unusual interlocking design slides up and down on the finger, making the brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle.
ESTIMATE: £1,500 – 2,500
LOT 295: CARTIER ‘WALKING PANTHER’ RING
One of my favourite summer reads this year was The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire by Francesca Cartier Brickell (the great-great-great grand-daughter of Louis Cartier). Since then I’ve become even more fascinated with the Cartier Panthère motif and how it all began with a love affair in Paris.
It all starts with an encounter between French jeweller Louis Cartier and Parisienne style icon Jeanne Toussaint. A combination of passion, flair and elegance gave birth to a whole new way of designing jewellery for the Cartier brand. The leopard motif inspired thousands of Cartier creations and it became the Maison’s signature:
“As a result of Toussaint’s elegance and remarkable determination—as well as her finely decorated apartment adorned with leopard skin—she earned the nickname “La Panthère” from her then-lover, Louis Cartier.” ~ Francesca Cartier Brickell
ESTIMATE: £600 – 800
LOT 298: ELSA PERETTI FOR TIFFANY: ‘MESH TASSEL’ NECKLACE
An impressive and iconic design from Elsa Peretti, this mesh scarf pendant evokes the slinky, sexy style of the seventies and the thrill of Studio 54 (check out Halston on Netflix – the mesh necklace is something of a celebrity!)
At the time, the mesh collection featured in a Halston runway show and was an instant hit with the jewellery elite of the 70s. Designers and jewellery craftsmen everywhere were captivated by Peretti’s trace-link technique that she borrowed from the fine mesh handbags created during the Art Deco period. Glamorous and easy-to-wear jewellery.
ESTIMATE: £700 – 900
MUST-HAVE GOLD CHAINS
Gold chains and gold earrings are a must-have for any jewellery box, but don’t just settle for any gold chain. Look for quality, distinction and signed pieces that stand out.
LOT 13: CHOPARD CHAIN NECKLACE
A beautifully bold Chopard gold chain with fancy-linking for the confident, modern woman. A gold chain you can wear to the boardroom or abroad on your travels. Notice the three-dimensional effect of the links, grouped together in triplets that gives the chain volume and heft. This gold chain means business!
ESTIMATE: £3,000 – 4,000
LOT 101: GOLD LONG CHAIN NECKLACE, 1975
It’s always good to have a bunch of different length chains so you can mix and match them with your distinct style and wardrobe. This long gold chain features one of the most beautiful link designs, known as the Byzantine link. A design taken from the 5th century, you may have also seen it called a Birdcage chain, King’s Braid chain or Idiot’s Delight chain. The links fold over each other in pairs in an intricate and complex design, commonly found in men’s jewellery. It comes in flat, square and round links like this necklace from 1975.
ESTIMATE: £1,000 – 1,500
SALVADOR DALI JEWELLERY
LOT 94: SALVADOR DALI FOR PIAGET: GOLD RING
A wonderful and collectable piece of artist jewelry! This Dali ring is Inspired by Louis XIII, who first introduced the Louis d’or coins in 1640. So called after the embossed image of King Louis on the ‘heads’ side of the coins, Salvador Dali created his own currency in 1966. The gold coins featured embossed images of Dali and his wife, Gala. They came in four values based on weight.
In 1967, Piaget came knocking and worked with Dali to create a line of coin jewellery. This ring is surrounded by an ornate and surreal design of laurel leaves, fleurs-de-lys and eggs (symbolising rebirth, a common theme in Dali’s art).
ESTIMATE: £800 – 1,200
LOT 93: SALVADOR DALI FOR PIAGET – GOLD PENDANT/NECKLACE
From the same collection of coin jewellery, this beautifully designed pendant is surrounded by an ornate tree branch border. Trees, especially the olive branch, featured heavily in Dali’s art and this necklace stays true to the artist’s vision. Complete with a stylised rope-twist chain, you don’t want to pass up this pendant!
ESTIMATE: £3,000 – 5,000
CHARMS BRACELETS & CHARMS
LOT 85: CHARM BRACELET
A steal at the price, this perfectly charming charm bracelet features a bunch of charms that would appeal to the world traveller. From bagpipes to Tutankhamun, there’s a little piece of the world in every vintage charm. Made from different carats of gold, this bracelet is a true treasure and can be worn in a multitude of ways.
ESTIMATE: £500 – 600
LOT 31: CHARM BRACELET
Another charmer, this time featuring a little bit of everything: from gold coins to a steering wheel and pearls tucked inside a lantern, there’s no end of charm in this bracelet.
ESTIMATE: £1,500 – 2,000
LOT 58: KUTCHINSKY DIAMOND-SET HORSESHOE PENDANT
More lucky charms, this time featuring beautiful brilliant-cut diamonds set in a vintage horseshoe of stylised gold. Kutchinsky Jewellers set up shop in the East End of London in 1893. Kutchinsky was recognised as the royal jeweller for the court of Ludwig of Bavaria in Poland and brought with them the skill and know-how of the jewellery trade. This charm is pure authentic Kutchinsky and perhaps symbolises the jewellers’ good fortune after fleeing Poland. Wear this charm for good luck, protection from evil and to ward off negative energy.
ESTIMATE: £500 – 700
LOT 296: BULGARI ‘CHIODI’ NECKLACE AND EARCLIPS SUITE
An unusual design of interlocking components resembling miniature toadstools, this gold Bulgari set is both unique and versatile. Likely from the 1980s to 90s when Bulgari was experimenting with jewellery designs made to be worn from morning to night, it is an incredible example of modular jewellery at its best. All you need is a singularly strong element and you have the starting point of something beautiful that looks great with anything, especially paired with other jewels and gemstones! Look how I styled the earrings, turning ear clips into ear cuffs. The chain can be worn as a necklace or even a bracelet – perfect for wearing over a white shirt. So versatile!
ESTIMATE: £4,500 – 6,500
LOT 304: SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND CLUSTER RING
Lady Diana made the sapphire and diamond cluster ring famous and it is making a comeback since the release of The Crown and movies like Spencer this year. Perhaps the star of the show, this beautiful piece is an exceptional ring. The cushion-shape of the sapphire adds depth and sparkle to the jewel, while the old brilliant-cut diamonds give the ring a rich, heirloom feel. Not to be missed!
ESTIMATE: £4,000 – 6,000
LOT 194: DIAMOND AND RUBY BOMBE RING
A beautiful example of a vintage bombé ring with invisible-set rubies. When you compare the claw-set diamond at the centre of the ring to the surrounding rubies – no prongs or bezels – but how do they do it? It takes precise measuring and skill to pull off invisible settings. The rubies are set side-by-side without any support or visible metalwork. Only tiny grooves under the girdle of each ruby hold them together and slide into place in a metal framework underneath. A remarkable ruby ring!
ESTIMATE: £1,500 – 2,000
LOT 262: DIAMOND RING AND DIAMOND HALF-ETERNITY RING
This engagement ring took my breath away. I just love how the centre diamond seems to float in a surround of baguette-cut diamonds. The contrasting cuts of diamonds are so fresh and lively. These two rings come together in a harmonious dance of love. A match made in heaven! It’s been a while since I experienced such excitement from an engagement ring design.
ESTIMATE: £1,500 – 2,000
Bonhams Knightsbridge Jewels begins on October 13 at 11:00 BST. Which jewels will you be bidding on? Let me know in the comments below.
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GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.
Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.
*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.
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