На прошлой неделе во время предпоказа Masterpiece я получила уникальную возможность примерить одно из самых узнаваемых украшений Van Cleef & Arpels , а также обсудить его с Nicolas Bos, креативным и генеральным директором ювелирного дома. Речь идет о легендарном колье-молнии. Каждое такое колье эксклюзивно, то, которое было представлено, изготовлено из белого золота, бриллиантов и рубинов. Придуманная в Америке в конце XIX века молния предназначалась для застегивания сапог, казалось бы, этот приземленный предмет весьма далек от такого утонченного мира, как мир ювелирных украшений. И все же несмотря на свое скромное происхождение застежка-молния стала мотивом одного из главных украшений  Van Cleef & Arpels, умело сочетая в себе иронию и великолепное ювелирное мастерство.

Van Cleef & Arpels_The Zip Necklace_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla

In 1938 Duchess of Windsor challenged Renée Puissant, the Maison’s artistic director and daughter of Alfred Van Cleef, to design a high jewellery zipper. She was inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli, whose biography I have just read and one of her favourite designers and the first couturier to use visible zippers in the early 1930s.

The finished high jewellery piece is an outstanding feat of jewellery engineering. The seemingly simple transformative function of a zipper hides within an extremely complex jewellery architecture and technique. It took Van Cleef & Arpels roughly 15 years to realise Duchess of Windsor’s request. Zippers we use on handbags and clothes work because the steel teeth are attached to elements that do not change shape and spaces between teeth are always the same. However gold is malleable and soft, so you cannot create a gold necklace in an industrial manner. Instead, such necklace has to be made by hand, adjusting each teeth one by one, and there is only one workshop in the world that has the knowledge and skill to do so. The Zip necklace was revisited in various forms throughout the 50’s and is still a distinctive element in Van Cleef & Arpels’ collections today.


Van Cleef & Arpels_The Zip Necklace_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla

GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla features exquisite global discoveries, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews – a celebration of fine jewellery, fashion jewellery and vintage jewellery.

*Photographed by Julia Flit. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. 

All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE. Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

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