JEWELRY DESIGNER TO WATCH: SILVIA FURMANOVICH SAO PAULO BRAZIL
I could not resist another visit to Silvia Furmanovich in Sao Paulo, find more about our previous visit here. With a jewelry blogger eye for style, I picked out my most favorite pieces from the collection on display. Among the jewels I adored the most was a chunky feather-like ebony necklace set with diamonds and matching feather earrings. Silvia Furmanovich is not your usual colored stones and diamond brand. Instead I perceive her jewelry as being an ‘all seeing’ art, the boutique is a refreshing and mesmerizing experience. It is located in a luxurious open door shopping mall, Cidade Jardim, immersed in lush greenery. However, blogging about jewelry is so much more than simply selecting gorgeous gems, we also came to learn more about the style and craftsmanship behind the brand. Here we caught up and interviewed Silvia herself for GEMOLOGUE
When was your brand founded and where is it produced?
I started creating jewelry as early as 1997 but officially founded my brand in 2003. The jewelry is produced by master artisans in São Paulo.
What are the distinguishing traits of your jewels?
One-of-a-kind, bold, unique. I like to focus on strong contrasts by pairing different materials and striking combinations of colored stones.
Your pieces are highly detailed with antique elements as well as corals and ebony, what is your creative process?
During my travels I always collect rare items and gems. My client wants what nobody has so many of my pieces are one-of-a-kind. I am heavily influenced by global cultures and exotic materials. I might not have an idea for a piece right away, but if I live with a rare object or gem for a while, I always end up transforming it into a wearable work of art.
What is your earliest memory or experience of jewellery?
I was born into a line of Italian goldsmiths and was always fascinated by old-school jewelry since childhood. My father used to have a workshop in the house we used to live in and my great-grandfather used to create sacred works of art for the Vatican.
How did you begin working as a jewellery designer?
I began by making bracelets out of woven porcelain bead bracelets, some of which were coated in 22k gold. Each piece was manually woven and featured intricate design. I would always add gemstones or antique elements onto the clasps or on the actual mesh.
Was there ever any option in your mind other than making jewelry for a living?
I could never see myself as anything other than a jewelry designer! I think living with creativity is very important because it awakens and renews an essential part of ourselves, and also allows us to access our dreams and inner lives.
Where do you find your inspiration/influences? What are you obsessed with right now?
I am always inspired by my travels and exotic countries, especially where there is abundant, wild nature or where cultures have developed some sort of artisan/manual forms of art. The connection with the hand is very important to me. I recently went to Japan for the first time and I am obsessed with the way they do things there.
Whart are you currently working on?
I am currently researching micro mosaic techniques, and have been looking at pieces of volcanic stone, as well as antique Etruscan & Roman jewelry.
What must never be forgotten when designing a jewel?
One should never forget that first and foremost a piece of jewelry should evoke desire, it should conjure the dream world.
How many collections have you designed? What is your favorite collection/piece and why?
I have made so many collections! It would be impossible to single out a favorite – it would be like picking a preferred child – but I am particularly proud of a collection I recently did inspired by Japan and the culture’s emphasis on aesthetics.
With which stones do you like to work with? What is “your way” of evaluating stones?
My all time favorite combination is turquoise mixed with diamonds. I also like coral. Turquoise and coral symbolize the sky and the earth for me!
Was jewelry always an important part of your style?
Always, I have always liked to adorn myself. My mother used to wear a lot of jewelry and brought many pieces from different places she traveled to.
How would you describe your personal style, and do you think that your collections directly reflects that?
Eclectic. I hope that my jewelry will reflect my love of native and global cultures.
How much do you think one can tell from a woman’s own collection of jewelry?
A lot! Brazilian women are very sensual by nature, and you can see they are very confident to wear large statement pieces.
What is the distinction between costume and fine jewelry?
The distinction between costume and fine jewelry is in the quality of gemstones and also the finishing.
GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla features exquisite global discoveries, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews – a celebration of fine jewellery, fashion jewellery and vintage jewellery.
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